tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16102261300985164562024-03-13T06:18:24.896-07:00The Equine Behaviorist - Behavior Q and ADr. Jennifer Williams, The Equine Behaviorist, answers equine behavior questions submitted by readers.Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-91961179437852105332012-05-02T10:12:00.001-07:002012-05-02T10:12:11.542-07:00Why does my mare kick at the panels at feeding time?<FONT FACE = Arial><br />
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<b><i>I have a mare who is very loving, but she kicks at the gelding next to her when it is feeding time. The two of them are turned out together, and the gelding is the herd leader. When they are in the pasture, everything is great. When it comes time to feed and they are in their runs, she kicks at him through the panels. She has hurt the bottom of her hoof from doing this, and I am worried that she is going to hurt more than just her hoof. She also swings her head from side to side if you do not feed her quickly. Her behaviors start when I go to get the hay.<br />
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It sounds like your mare is food aggressive. The two clues are that she kicks at the other horse at feeding time and that she gets upset when you don't bring food quickly enough. Many food aggressive horses become so after being starved and neglected at some point in their life. If you haven't owned her all of her life, she may have been neglected by a former owner. When a horse is neglected, she begins to worry about having enough to eat. She then carefully guards any food she finds from other horses by biting them, kicking them, pinning her ears, etc. Neglected horses also worry about when their next meal is coming, so they fret when it is time for feeding. I think they're always worried that THIS time the food won't come!<br />
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Some horses become food aggressive when they're kept on an irregular schedule. They don't know when their next meal will arrive, so they start to worry about it. They may paw, swing their head, whinny or become aggressive with other horses because they're so worried about their meal. Then when you are getting their food ready, they get so excited that they don't know what to do. That excess energy and excitement may show itself when the horse bites and kicks at other horses, kicks the walls or fence, paws, spins in circles, etc.<br />
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Some horses become less food aggressive over time as they realize their meals will always come. If you haven't had your mare long, I suggest waiting to see if she settles in more over time. To help her get past her food aggression, keep her on a regular schedule. And never skip a meal! You also might try putting an empty stall/feeding pen between her and your gelding at feeding time. That may help reassure her that he's not going to steal her food, and she may stop kicking. Leave her alone while she eats, too, so that she doesn't worry that you will take her food away.<br />
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If you've had her a long time and she's still acting this way, she may always be food aggressive. While most horses get better over time, a few of them don't. They can't let go of the past and always worry about their food. For those horses, I suggest giving them space and leaving them alone while they eat. Don't go into her stall/pen, clean her stall, groom her, etc. and keep other horses away from her while she eats. <br />
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Food aggression can be frustrating because you know you aren't the one starving her or withholding meals. But you can't reason with her to reassure her that she'll always be fed. The best you can do is keep her on a fairly tight feeding schedule so she knows when to anticipate feeding time. <br />
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Good luck with your girl!<br />
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</FONT>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-37116748573336061682011-12-14T10:18:00.000-08:002011-12-14T10:18:34.557-08:00Why is my horse rearing when I ride him for the first time in several months?<FONT FACE = "Arial">
<b>I have an 18 year old, 17.1 hh, Thoroughbred gelding who I have owned for ten years. He has always been reactive and spooky. He injured his leg and then developed complications from the original injury. Although he was treated by our veterinarian, we never received a definitive diagnosis. Because of his injury, I could not ride him for over two months. Then I had more time out of the saddle due to icy and cold weather. Finally we had a day where the temperature was above freezing, so I decided to take him out on a trail ride with his paddock mate.
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He did great going out but once we turned back towards the barn, he began rearing maybe a foot or so off the ground, stepping sideways, backing towards the road, stomping his feet on the pavement, prancing, and spinning around. I was really worried I would get thrown! I ended up dismounting each time a car came by because I worried he would dump me on the road or lung into the car. As soon as the car passed, I would mount again and he would resume the bad behavior.
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He's always been high-strung and difficult to ride, but I've never felt this unsafe. Could his behavior just be due to the fact that he hadn't been ridden in so long?</b>
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The short answer is yes - having so much time off could make your horse misbehave when you start riding him again. I also have a high strung horse, and he, like many other high strung horses, does best on a consistent riding schedule. It keeps him more focused on his job. If he gets time off, the first few rides can be a little difficult. He'll spook at nothing and generally ignore me. It takes a few rides to get him back in the working frame of mind.
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You may have made things more difficult for yourself by taking your horse on a trail ride for his first ride back to work. He had plenty of pent-up energy and the trail ride gave him the perfect thing to use it on: spooking at things and misbehaving. It was also a fairly chilly day (in the 30s) and horses often feel fresh and more reactive on those crisp days. Unfortunately he had the deck stacked against him!
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In the future, if you have to give him (or any other horse) time off, I suggest bringing them back to work more slowly. Start with riding in an arena or smaller, enclosed field and then progress to riding on trails again. Give the horse a few rides to get back into a working mindset before expecting too much out of him.
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Time off might not be the only culprit, though. Pain is a pretty powerful motivator, and it could certainly make a horse behave badly. You implied that your horse behaved when you got off of him because of oncoming traffic but went back to misbehaving once you got back on him. I would start by checking his tack, especially his saddle, to make sure it still fits. Because your horse had time off, the musculature in back could change and a saddle that once fit may not fit well anymore. It could be sitting too close to his spine, causing pressure when you are in the saddle, or it could be pinching or rubbing somewhere. If that's the case, he may have behaved in the beginning because the saddle wasn't too uncomfortable at first but the longer you rode, the more uncomfortable it got until he started acting out in an attempt to tell you he hurt.
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If you check your saddle and it still fits well, then I would next have your veterinary do another lameness exam on your horse. It may be that he appears sounds without a rider, but the extra weight on a rider, the hard pavement under his hooves and the work he had to do when ridden could be causing him pain. A comprehensive lameness exam with your veterinarian watching your horse move both in hand and under saddle can help rule out lingering affects of the undiagnosed lameness.
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I would also have your veterinarian check your horse's teeth. As horses get older, their teeth may need to be checked and floated more than once a year. If he has sharp points, they could be cutting into his gums and the pressure of a bit in his mouth may be uncomfortable.
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If you can rule out all of these possible causes of pain, then your horse just may need some more regular and consistent riding to slowly bring him back into shape before embarking on another trail ride. If that's the case, spend some time in the arena and bring him along, and before long you should be hitting the trails again!Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-8252575341772437262011-09-19T09:59:00.000-07:002011-09-19T09:59:16.711-07:00Why Does My Horse Groom Me?<FONT FACE = "Arial">
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I was wondering if it’s normal for my horse to groom me. I’ve searched high and low on the internet and can’t find anything about horses grooming their owners. I haven’t even heard of other horse people experiencing this with their horses. What does it mean? Should I let him do this to me? He doesn’t hurt me and he isn’t pushy about it but rather quite gentle and sincere (if that makes any sense). Typically he does this as a response to my scratching/rubbing his neck, back or withers. This is my first horse; I adopted him from a rescue 18 months ago. He was very sick and lame when I adopted him so the first 8 months I couldn’t do anything but hang out with him in his stall and in pasture. Does he think I’m another horse?
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If you watch other horses together in pasture, they perform "mutual grooming". They'll stand next to each other facing opposite directions. One will start grooming, or gently nibbling, at the other horse's withers. Then the groomed horse will begin nibbling or grooming at the first horse's withers. They'll generally groom along the withers and neck, and sometimes onto the back. They are gentle and it is a herd behavior that promotes closer ties in the herd. And it feels good to them.
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So sometimes while a human is grooming her horse, especially if the human is using a curry comb or scratching with her fingers, her horse will turn around and try to groom her back. I don't allow my horses to groom me - I'm not a horse and don't want to be treated like a horse. Once you allow your horse to treat you like a horse, you open yourself to being on the receiving end of dominance behaviors like biting and kicking as well as comfort behaviors like grooming.
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I keep my horses tied when they're being groomed, and if one does reach around to groom me, I gently push their head away from me. I don't hit them, slap them, or make a big deal of it. I either use my open hand on their cheek to push their head away, or I tug on their halter or lead rope to push their head away. After a few times, most horses understand that you don't want to be groomed and they leave you alone.
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Your horse will still enjoy the scratching and grooming, though, and that is a great way to help him relax with you, trust you and bond with you. So enjoy your grooming time - without being mutually groomed!
</FONT>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-221419321577054402011-08-25T11:18:00.000-07:002011-08-25T11:18:03.538-07:00What do I do with a horse who isn't good with children?<FONT FACE = "Arial">
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I am looking for some advice and was wondering if you would be so kind to help me. I have a 6 year old, skewbald mare who is so lovely, and the only problem I have is she's not so good on the ground with children that are below her eye level. She puts her ears back and threatens to bite and sometimes she slightly turns her back end as well. What would you suggest as my son absolutely loves her to bits and the riding side is going great but he would like to be able to groom her etc.
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You've given me a tough question today! I would like for you to help your mare work through her problem, but at the same time I think keeping your son (and other children) safe is the most important thing.
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There are some horses who really simply don't like children. In some cases, they've been teased or mishandled by children and never trust them again. Some horses don't like how loud young children can be and how fast and unpredictably they can move. So if you let your son around your mare, make sure he's quiet and moves slowly. Don't allow him to run around, yell, move jerkily, etc.
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Normally when a horse doesn't like something, I work to desensitize them to the thing they don't like by exposing them to it and pairing it with something they do like (I may fly-spray a nervous horse and when she stands quietly I then give her a treat). However I think that kids' safety is very important. If your child is around your mare, I would have him wear a helmet and boots, even if he isn't riding. And I wouldn't leave them together unsupervised even for a few minutes.
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Considering having your veterinarian check her vision. If she has limited vision, she may not be able to see your son and is startled when he suddenly pets her or talks to her. If poor vision is her trouble, you may be able to help improve her attitude by teaching her to lower her head where she can see your son approaching.
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I hate to admit that there's a problem I'm not sure how to fix, but I'm not willing to put your son at risk of getting injured in an effort to desensitize your mare. It may be that you need to get your son a more child-friendly horse of his own.
</FONT>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-56176225798755840492011-08-17T11:33:00.000-07:002011-08-17T11:33:59.910-07:00Why is my horse changing leads at the canter?<FONT FACE = "Arial">
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I have a nine year old, Saddlebred, gelding that is very talented. I have had him for four years, but did not start riding him myself until the last six months as he was too much horse for me until now. He has lots of motion, a very "look at me" attitude, and never puts an ear back. My problem is two-fold. I have a trainer that tends to give up on horses quickly if he is unable to correct a problem. In fact, he is pressing me to sell him which I truly do not want to do because I love this horse. My horse's problem is that he changes leads several times each way in the canter at home. He has been evaluated by a chiropractor and nothing was found wrong: I was just sold some very expensive "herbs" to help his mind. When he is at a show he typically doesn't change leads in the canter. I am trying to find someone who can help this horse or recommend someone that may be able to help him. He is the most beautiful and sweet horse, and a ride on him will make you grin for days afterwards. I would greatly appreciate any advice or referrals from you if you know someone who may have experience in this area.</B>
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Your horse sounds like a lovely boy. I really love Saddlebreds, especially those with that showy attitude and a lot of action. I personally would move to another trainer if yours is impatient and unwilling to work to correct problems in a horse, especially a horse his client obviously loves. I don't have a lot of tolerance for trainers who aren't willing or able to fix problems.
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I would also have an equine veterinarian examine your horse. Equine chiropractors can play an important role in treating horses, but not all equine chiropractics have the same education and training. Some are very good, but some aren't. I would want an equine veterinarian to do a lameness examine, examine the horse's back and look at his hoof care.
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If the veterinarian doesn't find anything, then I would want a trainer to look at you and your riding. Some horses are <B>very</B> sensitive to their riders and subtle shifts in their rider's weight and/or position can cause them to change leads. I have a horse of mine that won't walk a straight line for a novice - he's so responsible to seat aids and leg aids that a novice rider who is insecure gives him so many conflicting cues that he zig-zags all over the place. Have the trainer check your seat and your legs as you ride. You may find you've been inadvertently telling your horse to swap leads. You also might have the trainer ride your horse to see if he swaps leads for the trainer, too.
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If both your horse and your riding check out, then I would work on building up his strength. Horses normally swap leads because either they have a physical problem (most common cause), their riders are asking them to or because they're out of shape and unable to canter long periods. Start slowly with trot work and very brief canter sessions and build up the length of riding/training sessions over time.
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Once he's in good shape, give him longer canter sessions. If he continues swapping leads, then treat him like a young horse who doesn't really know how to canter. Ask for very brief canter sessions, bringing him back to a walk or trot before he has a chance to swap leads. When you start getting quality short canters, gradually extend the length of time you ask him to canter. If he does swap leads, bring him back to a walk and ask him to pick up the correct lead again.
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Good luck with your boy! I think you are fortunate to have such a lovely horse and hope you are able to continue working with him.
</FONT>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-63006517755540285492011-08-10T10:15:00.000-07:002011-08-10T10:30:26.653-07:00How do I cope with a horse who doesn't like riding with other horses?<FONT FACE = "Arial">
<I><B>I have an eighteen year old mare mare who has recently gone through ground manners training. She has learned how to give and such using a snaffle bit. She is calm when I take her on rides alone, but when other horses are with us she acts up by side-passing, throwing her head and not listening to me. She understands leg and rein cues. Any ideas?</I></B>
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You said the mare recently received ground training, but you didn't mention whether she was broke to ride or not before then so I'm going to have to guess a bit in order to answer your question.
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Your mare may be acting up when ridden on the trail because of one of the following reasons:
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<LI>She was recently broke to ride and has not been ridden around other horses.
<LI>She's a very timid mare and other horses make her nervous.
<LI>She's been kicked, injured or otherwise hurt by another horse and she's scared of having them close to her.
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In any of these cases, the mare is nervous about other horses near her so she's acting out. You'll need to take a step back to fix this problem and take a little time, but the results will be worth it.
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Go back to riding in an arena or small field. Pick a friend with a calm, quiet, and non-dominant horse to ride with you. Start off by having your horse stand in the center of the field or arena while your friend walks around the ring/field. Instruct your friend to give your mare plenty of space. If you your mare is nervous, dismount and stand next to her until she quiets and settles down. Pet her and reward her for quiet behavior and then mount up. Ask her to continue standing in the center of the ring for a minute or two. If she's quiet and calm, then go to the rail and ride with your friend on the opposite side of the arena. Over time, let your friend get closer to you. (Never allow your friend to get closer than a horse's length from your mare).
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The first ride or two, keep your mare and your friend's horse at a walk. As long as your mare is quiet, reward her with petting. If she gets upset, ask your friend to stand still and put your mare to work trotting or cantering - ask her to leg yield, sidepass, circle, etc. until she's got her mind on you. When she does, let her go back to a walk. Make the right behavior (being quiet with another horse in the field/ring) easy by letting her walk. Make the wrong behavior (getting upset) harder by making her work harder when she's not listening.
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If she handles the first ride at the walk well, then have her and the other horse take turns trotting on the second ride. Again, give her some space but let the other horse drift closer and closer to her. Over the next few rides, you can let her trot and canter more.
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When she's doing well with one horse in the ring or field at a walk, trot and canter, add another horse and over time add several more horses. Once she's comfortable in the ring with several horses, you can venture back out on the trail.
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When you start back to trail riding, go with just a couple of friends who have helped you out in the arena. Your first ride should be at a walk only, and your friends need to give your mare space so she won't feel crowded and get nervous. If your mare stops listening to you, do circles on the trail, leg yield back and forth or side-pass and make her work. When she's quiet, pet her and give her a loose and relaxed rein.
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Over time, build back up to faster trail rides with more riders. Just remind riders to give your horse space to relax and make trail riding a good experience for her.
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Good luck! Soon you should be enjoying trail rides - with a horse who enjoys them, too!
</FONT>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-68193367202904960422011-07-27T10:34:00.000-07:002011-07-27T10:34:23.573-07:00How do we cope with a horse who is constantly biting or trying to bite?<FONT FACE = "Arial"><br />
<b><i>We have a horse that we've had on trial for about a month and have an option to lease him for six months. He's a 16 hh, 10 year old, Appy/TB cross. He has experience in hunter equitation and has evented for the past three years. My daughter loves to ride him, but he is so mouthy! He bites and reaches out constantly. Eben when you try to bring him in from his turnout, he won't move and if you give him a tug he will bite. He has already bitten me and my daughter and several people at the barn.</i></b><br />
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Biting is one of those behaviors that some people think is trivial, but it can be truly dangerous. Although you haven't said whether the horse is nipping (pinching the skin with his teeth) or really biting (breaking the skin, leaving sizable bruises, etc.), biting often starts as nipping and can then escalate. <br />
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Nipping often starts in young horses who are exploring the world with their mouth. It seems to be more common in colts, especially those who are not yet gelded, but fillies may also nip. Some people ignore the behavior, thinking it'll go away on its own. Others even think it is cute when a young horse nibbles their shirt, hair or skin and pet them, talk to them, or otherwise give them positive attention when they do it. This encourages the horse to continue nibbling and then the owner or handler is surprised when one day the horse bites them, breaking the skin. The horse is surprised when the human yells or scolds them. In his mind, he was just doing what he had been encouraged to do in the past.<br />
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In my barn, if a horse nibbles or nips, he is immediately reprimanded. If he's wearing a halter and leadrope, the reprimand is normally a loud NO followed by a jerk on the leadrope or making the horse back up. If the horse is loose, I give a loud no and walk away and ignore the horse. If the horse repeats the behavior, I will smack him or hit him in the chest, neck or shoulder in additional to giving a loud NO. <br />
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Some people think it is cruel to smack or hit a horse. I do not advocate hitting a horse with a whip or other "tool/implement", repeatedly hitting a horse, hitting a horse for no reason, punching a horse or hitting a horse in the head. However a firm smack or hit on the neck, shoulder, or chest is similar to the punishment horses give each other for inappropriate behavior. Watch a mare with her older foal or a group of horses in the pasture: if the foal bites his mother, his mother may bite him back, gently push him with her hoof or even kick. If a grown horse bites or nips at another, the punishment is often more stern: a hard bite or kick from the horse who was bitten. A single smack from a human is a pretty mild punishment compared to a strong bite or kick from another horse.<br />
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If a horse in my barn bites, he is immediately reprimanded with a loud no and either a smack/hit to the chest, neck or shoulder. I'll follow that up by backing him out of my space. Since bites can do a lot of damage, I make sure to make it very clear that biting is not an acceptable behavior. <br />
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If you discipline a horse this way, you need to keep a few things in mind:<br />
- The punishment must be immediate. If the horse was loose and runs away, you cannot chase him down, catch him and then smack him. By the time you've done that, he doesn't understand what the smack is. Likewise, you can't walk off, grab a whip, and smack him with the whip because by the time you get back and smack him with a whip, too much time has passed and he's not making the connection between biting and getting smacked.<br />
- If the horse is loose, smacking or hitting him may not be safe as he may whirl around and kick you. If he is loose, then make a loud noise, shoo him away and then walk away and ignore him.<br />
- Learn the signs that your horse is about to bite (pinned ears, swishing tail, tightness in his mouth) and move away from him when he displays those signs. Don't give him a chance to bite.<br />
- Rarely, disciplining a horse for biting makes him more aggressive. If your horse reacts this way, get professional help.<br />
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I've known some people who have carried a stiff bristle brush, a tack or a nail in their hands and when the horse goes to bite, the person thrusts the brush, nail or tack towards the horse so that the horse hits the sharp edge(s) with his muzzle. For some horses, after a few times of hitting the sharp edge when they go to bite, they decide that biting is painful and they stop.<br />
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Another thing to keep in mind: if you have a biter or nipper, do not hand-feed him/her treats. Some horses can eat hand-fed treats with no problems, but I've found that some horses become pushy, look for treats constantly, and bite your hands, clothing, arms, etc. while trying to find them.<br />
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You also mentioned that your horse is constantly reaching out towards you. Don't let him. Set a space around yourself that's your personal bubble. When your horse wants to intrude on that space, push him out with your hand or make him back up (if he's haltered). You need to be consistent - any time he invades your space even if only part of his body (like his muzzle) invades your space, make him get out. Don't give him that opportunity to get close to you and then bite.<br />
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When dealing with a horse who nips or bites, you must be consistent. Any time he nips or bites you (or even at you), you <b>must</b> discipline him. You can't ignore the biting sometimes because you are tired or it was cute or it was minor or he really didn't mean it. You must stay on top of this behavior if you want it to stop.<br />
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If your horse continues biting after you discipline him, then you'll need to seek professional help. And until you do, don't let your daughter handle the horse and consider putting a muzzle on him so he can't bite you (or anyone else). <br />
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</FONT>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-16865153876713188972011-01-31T10:31:00.000-08:002011-01-31T10:31:46.708-08:00Is ear-pinning a sign of worse things to come?<i><b>I bought and adorable 6 year old small show pony this week at the auction at USEF Pony Finals in Kentucky. He is great when you ride him but very green. The problem is that he pins his ears at you when you approach him. He then licks you if you don't show fear. I am confused by this behavior and worry that it is a sign of bad things to come. The previous owner says that he was gelded just two years ago and broke to ride a year ago. She also said that he needs to get to know you and has been ridden by many children. He is also very hand shy and it looks like he might have been abused by his reaction. <br />
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Congrats on the new pony! You've brought up a few different issues here, and I want to address each one.<br />
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1. The pony pins his ears when you approach him. You say he then licks if you don't show fear, but you don't mention what he does if someone acts fearful or how you approach him. Horses like humans are individuals, and some of them are just grumpy. I have a one here that I call Mr. Grumpy Pants (a non-scientific term!). He walks around with his ears back and puts them further back when you first approach him, especially if he's in his stall or its dinner time. He has good ground manners, though, and I ignore his pinned ears. He's just a grumpy horse.<br />
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You don't mention where your pony is nor how you approach him. If he pins his ears when he's in his stall and eating, then leave him alone during dinner time. When I feed my horses, I figure that's their time to eat and hang out. I don't ask them to do anything else and if they put their ears back at me, I ignore it (I will not ignore bad behavior like kicking, biting, etc.). <br />
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If the pony's ground manners are otherwise good, then I would ignore his grumpy attitude. By good ground manners, I mean that he doesn't kick or bite, he leads and stands tied, etc. You can't really discipline a horse for having his ears back - all you are likely to do is make him more grouchy. <br />
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2. He was gelded two years ago. Unless he's displaying stallion-like behavior (calling to mares, chasing and attempting to mount mares in the field, etc.), I wouldn't worry about this. Four isn't a late gelding age, and many stallions are gelded at four years (or even later) and adjust just fine to being geldings.<br />
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3. He is hand shy and you believe he was abused. You've touched on a big pet peeve of mine: horses being labeled abused because they act a bit headshy. Truly abused horses are few and far between - there are many who are not taught properly, but there are very few who are truly abused.<br />
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You don't describe what he does when you move your hands around his head, but I would wager that he's not headshy/abused. He may have learned that if he moves away from contact with his head, he'll be left alone and not have to work. Or he may never have been taught to stand nicely while his head is handled. Another possibility is that he just wants to be left alone or doesn't like being petted on his head. If that's the issue, pet him on his shoulder instead of his head and see how he reacts.<br />
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If your horse is violently headshy meaning he throws his head into you, strikes out with his front feet, tries to spin around and kick or displays other behavior that could get you hurt, then seek a professional trainer who can help him overcome these issues.<br />
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If he just moves his head away, puts his ears back or walks off, then you can work with him and start desensitizing him to having his head handled. It is best to have him in a halter and leadrope and leave him untied. Hold the end of the leadrope with one hand. Move the other hand around his head. Let him toss his head, move around (keep enough pressure on the leadrope, though, that he moves in a circle around you with his hindquarters away from you). Keep moving your hand until he stops moving, drops his head and licks and chews. This is a sign he's relaxed. Stop immediately, pet him, let him rest a minute, and then start again. If he's ok with your hands moving around, move closer to him and repeat. Keep this up until he's letting you touch his head and standing quietly. This is not necessarily something you can accomplish in just one training session.<br />
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During the handling sessions, if he gets worse or starts to react aggressively, then back up and repeat the last successful step. If you are unable to complete even one step successfully, then seek professional help.<br />
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Good luck with your new pony - I hope he turns out to be just what you were wanting!Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-62167861498019410362011-01-13T10:06:00.000-08:002011-01-13T10:06:33.325-08:00What do I do if my horse bucks again?<FONT FACE = Arial><br />
<b>I was recently trail riding my 10 year old gelding that I purchased about 5 months ago. As we were riding down a ravine, my horse appeared to slip. When he slipped forward, I fell forward onto his neck. Then, as he was trying to get out of the ravine, he began to buck and bucked me right off. He has never bucked before with me, but now I'm concerned he will buck again. What do I do if he starts to buck (besides hold on for dear life)? Do I pull one rein to my hip, as if to stop? Any suggestions?</b><br />
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<P><br />
Congrats on the new horse! It is always exciting to add a new horse, but it can also be frustrating to adjust to a new horse. Of course, riding different horses in different situations is what makes us good horsemen and horsewomen.<br />
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You don't mention how experienced a rider you are, and that can make a difference in my answer. For example, if you aren't an experienced rider, you might not be able to tell whether or not your horse was bucking. Sometimes when a horse comes up out of a ravine or up a very steep hill, they take bounding or leaping steps that can feel like bucking. And if you aren't prepare for those leaps, then it is easy to be unbalanced and come off.<br />
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However if you are an experienced rider, then you probably know the difference between a leap and a buck. Your horse may have been bucking because you were unbalanced - you said you had slipped forward onto his neck. Sometimes an unbalanced rider can make a horse uncomfortable enough to buck. Or you may have startled him when you slipped onto his neck, and that may have made him buck. You can prevent those two things in the future. More riding time and lessons with a good instructor can help you develop better balance. Desensitizing your horse to you moving around in the saddle - leaning backwards and leaning forwards onto his neck can help him be better prepared in the future. You also should get your horse used to having you touch him on his neck, back, sides, etc. when you are on his back.<br />
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These bucks may have been an isolated experience: a reaction to stumbling, you slipping forward and then being unbalanced when coming out of the ravine. However if he bucks again, here are a few tips:<br />
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<UL><LI>Try pulling his head up and sending him forward. It is more difficult for a horse to buck when their head is up and they're moving. <br />
<LI>Teach him the one rein stop ahead of time and use if he bucks.<br />
<LI>Teach him an absolute "whoa". That means teaching him that no matter what he's doing, when you say whoa he stops moving. This is what works best with my mare who occasionally bucks. If she starts, I say "whoa" loud and firm and she stops. However, she's been taught in training sessions that when I say "whoa" I mean to stop <b>right now!</b><br />
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Good luck with your horse. I hope this helps and that you have many more enjoyable rides together.
</FONT>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-16879979779520907302011-01-05T09:56:00.000-08:002011-01-05T09:56:02.180-08:00How do I deal with separation anxiety in my show horse?<FONT FACE = Arial><br />
<b>I have a 13 year old, Quarter Horse that is shown in western pleasure. He has been in training since his 2 year old year, and I purchased him as a 6 year old. When I bought him, he had no problems. However, over the years he has developed severe separation anxiety. Last week he and another horse went to a huge show. He was shown the first day, and then not shown again because his mental state deteriorated. He climbed the walls whenever the other horse was taken away to show or lunge. As long as someone or another horse was with him he was ok. I am at my wits end on what to do.<br />
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<P>Separation anxiety can be such a frustrating problem for owners that I've published an article in <i>EQUUS Magazine</i> called Happy Together which discusses separation anxiety, and my first Behavior Q&A Column was about separation anxiety. <a href="http://www.equinebehavior.net/previousquestions/separationanxiety.htm">Click here to read that column.</a><br />
<P>When dealing with separation anxiety, look at the horse in question. Is he normally a high-strung horse? They seem to be a little more likely to form such close ties to other horses. You said your horse had no problems when you first got him, so I'm guessing he wasn't overly prone to stress and creating such strong bonds. So something may have changed in his life to cause him to be easily stressed out at shows. You said he's been in training since he was two - so that's eleven years of training and showing. That in and of itself can be quite stressful. Maybe it is time for him to have some downtime, hang out, and just be a horse. <br />
<P>I would also have a vet check him out for physical problems. If he's in pain or uncomfortable, he's going to be stressed out at shows. And that stress may cause him to bond to another horse for comfort and companionship. Since he's been showing for so long, I would ask the vet to check him for ulcers as well since they can cause discomfort, leading to more stress.<br />
<P>You didn't mention if he was ok at home and only a problem at shows. If showing is the problem then once you've eliminated your gelding's sources of stress and given him some time off, it is time to go back to showing. Unfortunately, showing itself might be the source of his stress. So I would take it slowly: take him to some small, schooling shows. At first, just ride him around the grounds and don't enter him in the competition. If he deals with that ok and is willing to leave his buddy at the trailer or in the stall, then you can start showing him again. Make sure the experience is low-key and not stressful. You aren't showing to win ribbons, you are showing him so he can learn that the show ring is not so stressful and scary that he needs to cling to someone else for comfort.<br />
<P>If even riding him at the show grounds is difficult, then you have more work to do. I would start by taking him to shows and taking him on short walks around the grounds - start with five minutes. If he stays calm and doesn't get upset after five minutes, praise him and take him back to his stall or the trailer. If he gets upset, then you'll have to have even shorter training sessions. The goal is to have him listen to you and not panic for his friend. I would also haul him to the show with different horses - don't set him up to have one friend he relies on. Take longer and longer walks, always rewarding good behavior and heading back to the trailer/stall before he gets nervous and tense. Once he can handle walking around the grounds without his pal, then start riding him at the grounds, following the same procedure - short, low-key rides where you return before he gets upset, increasing the length of the ride over time. And eventually heading back into the ring.<br />
<P>This isn't a quick fix - but it is one that's more likely to get him back into the ring and winning again. If he's ok at shows now except when his pal is taken out of his/her stall, then you need to make sure to stable him at shows where he always has a companion. <br />
<P>Good luck!<br />
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</FONT>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-13047119345644772772010-12-14T09:52:00.000-08:002010-12-14T09:52:32.837-08:00Why has my quiet horse suddenly began rearing and striking and bolting?<b>We desperately need help. We own a 7 year old, 15.3hh, Heavy Cob. He's been my young sister's riding horse for the last two years. We got him from a woman who allowed him to do what ever he pleased. We knew this when we took him on but were sure we could fix his behavior. In the beginning, we put his odd moments down to babyish behaviour as his was only five. Now he is seven and his behaviour has changed dramatically. It started on the ground when he would bolt when we led him to the field. It then progressed to his ridden work: he started bolting and rearing. In the last week his behaviour has become more aggressive: he rears and strikes at his handler. We cannot catch him in the field as he will turn on you. Why has a nice placid cob become so nasty? We have always disciplined him when he has shown bad behaviour and praised for good. Now he will turn on you when you discipline him. He is going to be vetted but he is a very fit and healthy horse so I don't think it would be anything medical. <i></i></b><br />
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I'm glad you plan on having a vet see this horse, and that's something that needs to be done ASAP. Although he seems fit and healthy, he may have health problems you haven't noticed. Blindness, pain and dental problems can all cause bad behavior. Those conditions may be subtle and something you could miss. A thorough vet exam can help rule out and physical causes of bad behavior or recommend treatment if any are discovered.<br />
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After he has been vetted and either cleared of any health problems or treated for health problems that exist, you need to get him to a trainer. His behavior is escalating and someone is likely to get hurt if you continue as you have. He sounds like a spoiled young horse who has learned he can intimidate people, and however you are disciplining him, it is not working. Rearing and striking are two of the most dangerous behaviors a horse can display - they can get you badly hurt or killed. <br />
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I would talk to local trainers, explain his history and current behavior, talk about how you have disciplined him and how he reacts, and then send him to someone who has experience with problem horses and is willing to work with him. He sounds like he will need a trainer who is firm and consistent without being overly harsh. He's going to need a trainer who is attentive and able to keep up with him. <br />
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Once the trainer has worked with him and seen improvement in his behavior, you, your sister and anyone else who plans to handle this horse need to take lessons with the trainer to learn how to properly handle him and discipline him.<br />
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If this horse is a stallion, I also suggest getting him gelded. Unless you have experience handling stallions, the proper facilities to house a stallion and plans to promote him, you don't need to own a stallion. Stallions take time, attention and consistency and are best left to people who have experience with them.<br />
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Good luck with your horse. Please get professional help ASAP so no one gets hurt by this horse.Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-61677962863296057182010-11-09T10:56:00.000-08:002010-11-09T10:56:44.153-08:00The Question: How do I get a degree in equine behavior?<i style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>I am in my last year of an undergraduate and have found animal behavior studies very interesting, and I would possible like to pursue this for my MA and PhD. But I am having a hard time finding information on animal behavior with horses. In one of my searches I came across your website and I am wondering if you could help. Do you know of any universities in Canada, specifically Alberta, that offer similar masters and Ph.D degrees like what you have?</b></i><br />
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</b></i><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I'm often asked how I got my degree and where others can go to get a degree in equine behavior. I don't know of any schools that offer a Masters or Doctorate of Equine Behavior. You'll actually be getting your degree through another department, likely Animal Science, Equine Science or Veterinary Medicine. You'll want to pick a school that has an ethology section, an equine section with a professor/advisor who is interested in behavior or a behavior section. My degree is in Animal Science, obtained through the ethology section. I chose to focus my research on equines. My Masters' thesis was on imprint training and my doctoral dissertation was on clicker training. I took classes in ethology and immunology, in agriculture education and in learning (through the psychology department). The combination of my research, class work and previous experience working with my own horses and for various trainers gave me the background to become an equine behaviorist.</span><br />
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</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Before traveling down this road, I advise you to consider what you what to do with your degree and training. If you would like to work in academia, teaching classes and doing continued research on equine behavior, then you'll want to go to a university that has a strong research program and publishers papers in scientific journals (Applied Animal Behaviour Science, Equine Veterinary Journal, Journal of Equine Veterinary Science, etc.) and one that presents data to scientific conferences. You might look at Pubmed (www.pubmed.com) for research that interests you and contact the person doing the research. </span><br />
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</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If you would like to become a veterinary behaviorist, one who treats animals for physical as well as behavioral issues, you'll need to go to veterinary school and take behavior classes. If you want to become a practicing behaviorist (one who takes on clients and works on behavioral issues), you need to know that it is a tough job to get started in and does not pay well. </span><br />
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</span><br />
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">You might check out the Animal Behavior Society, International Society of Applied Ethologists, Equine Science Society, and Equine Nutrition and Physiology Society. I don't know anyone in your area specifically to refer you to.</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Good luck!</span></div><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-7188320623800162582010-10-18T11:41:00.000-07:002010-10-18T11:41:06.294-07:00The Question: How do I teach my horse to let me handle her feet?<i><b>I have a foundered mare. We need to have her feet trimmed and treated, but she will not let us handle them. I have started a program where I am attempting to reward her for picking up her feet by giving her a bite of feed every time I get the slightest response. But progress is minimal. She is not touchy or afraid; she's strong and stubborn. In all other ways, she's easy to deal with. You will tell me she is in pain, and she is. But she was this way before she foundered. The founder has just compounded the problem. She is getting durmosedan to help her deal with the pain. I need to know if my proposed plan will work. Currently you can get her foot off the ground with some coaxing, but she won't let you bend her leg and will yank it away after a few seconds. Am I rewarding her for bad behavior or is any response acceptable at this point? </b></i><br />
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Horses who don't pick up their feet when asked are one of my pet peeves. It is something every horse needs to be taught when they're young as it is impossible to properly care for a horse whose feet you cannot handle.<br />
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Unfortunately, we now have to deal with a mare who is in pain and needs to learn a lesson that's going to cause her more pain. Until you can get her retrained, you need to talk to your vet about sedating your mare in order to get her feet trimmed. Also talk to your vet about your mare's pain level. Depending on how badly foundered she is and how she tolerates pain, she simply may be in too much pain to lift her feet. If that's the case, you may have to make some tough decisions.<br />
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If she's not in too much pain, then start working with her. I think you need to take a few steps backward on your plan for now. First, is food a good reward for this mare? Some horses aren't interested enough in food to work hard for a food reward. If food isn't a good reward, find out what is. For some, it is praise (petting, soft/nice words). For some it is being left alone. Find what works for your mare.<br />
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Then look at how you approach this. You said you can pick her foot up, but only wish a lot of work and coaxing. For now, focus on picking her foot up - <b>not on holding it up</b>. Run your hand down her leg, and if you have to lean into her shoulder, and as soon as she even acts like she's going to pick her foot up stop what you are doing and reward her. You'll know when she's thinking about picking her foot up because she'll tense and shift her weight. Reward her with whatever works for her, and then ask again. If she happens to pick her foot up at this stage, don't hold it up - just let go of it (gently) and reward. The goal here is to get to the point that you run your hand down her leg and she makes an attempt to pick her foot up right away. When she's doing that on both sides, move on to the next step.<br />
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The next step is rewarding her when she actually picks her foot up. Don't hold onto her foot or do anything with it at this point, just get her to the point where you run your hand down her leg and she picks up her foot. <br />
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These two steps may go quickly, or they may take many repetitions over several days. You cannot rush this, though. So if you get impatient, walk away and come back when you can be calm and patient.<br />
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Once she's picking up both feet reliably, then it is time to ask her to bend her leg. You've mentioned that that is an issue, so at first ask only for the slightest bend. If she's resistant, hold onto her foot. If she gives, then set her foot down and reward her. Over time, ask for more bend to her leg. Once she'll pick up both front feet and bend her leg to where you need, you'll ask her to hold her foot up for a second or two. And again, slowly increase the time you ask her to hold her foot up. <br />
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Rewarding her is important as is slowly increasing what you are asking for. However you have to get the basis down - picking her foot up at all - before you can move on to anything. I bet if you can get her to where she picks up her foot as soon as you ask, everything else will flow more smoothly. <br />
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Since she's foundered and hurts, once you get her picking up her foot and holding it up, remember to only ask her to hold it up a very short amount of time. Your farrier is going to have to be patient and be willing to give her a lot of breaks. AND once she's picking her feet up and holding them up, make sure she always has a good farrier experience. If the farrier is hasty, asks too much or is unkind with her, she may revert.<br />
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Good luck!Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-67882430113793934592010-08-25T10:28:00.000-07:002010-08-25T10:28:16.959-07:00The Question: I've moved my horse home from the boarding barn, and now he's restless and nervous. What's going on?<div class="MsoNormal"><i><b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">I have owned horses my entire life but I recently purchased a 17 year old gelding. He is in very good health aside from a little bit of arthritis which I am giving him Adequan monthly and he has remain very sound. Do to all the changes in the economy, the gas prices are killing me, so I was forced to bring him home from the stable. He now has a big 14 x 14 stall and his own two acre lot. However, he is not quite as thrilled as I thought he would be. I am now being told that he has always been at a show barn with lots of horses and lots of activity. He is a nervous wreck. It’s been two days and he is pacing back and forth in his stall nearly constantly. If I tie him, he stands very quiet and relaxed, or if I ride him or lead him out to eat some grass he’s great. As soon as I put him back in the stall he starts pacing from one corner to the next. </span></span></b></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i><b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">It’s been my experience that if a horse is nervous, whether you tie them or not, they will fidget (pawing or moving back and forth). I can’t understand why he relaxes when he is tied? Also, as long as he is eating he’s fine. I finally went to bed on Sunday night and figured if he’s going to pace there is nothing I can do about it. When I got up this morning, I looked out the window and he was standing fine. As soon as I opened the door to go feed him he started again. At 17 yrs old, will he adjust? I have no idea what to do. I’m hoping once I get him on the grass free choice he will be outside and do better. But he has not been on grass for nearly two years so I need to be careful and slowly increase his turnout time. Lord knows all I need is for him to colic. Please let me know what you think. He is normally a very quiet and cooperative horse. He’s an excellent show horse and so quiet that my 3 yr old niece can ride him, but not now. I would appreciate any advice you can give me.</span></span></b></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Congrats on your new horse! Bringing home a new horse and getting to know him is always exciting, although sometimes it can be challenging.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Pacing or stall-walking it a stereptypy - a repetitive behavior that's done for no apparent reason. Horses perform stereotypies in responses to stress. It helps them cope with the stress, and even once the source of stress is removed, most horses continue performing stereotypies.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">You didn't mention whether or not your horse paced in his stall in the boarding barn - that may be because he wasn't stalled, you didn't see him there, or because he didn't pace before. I would guess that he did pace before but perhaps you never saw it. If so, this is part of your horse's character now, and you will have little chance of stopping it. If he does better once out on pasture, then I would leave him there (or set things up where he can go to his stall or pasture on his own terms). Some horses who stall-walk will be perfectly fine out in pasture.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">If you know that he did not pace before you brought him home, then moving him may have caused enough stress to cause him to pace. If he had lived at the previous farm for a long time, moving someplace completely new can be stressful. He also may be reacting to being alone. Horses are herd animals and do best when they have other horses living with them. They need the comfort, social interactions and security that a herd provides. When you are working with him, tie him up or are outside while he grazes, he may feel enough security from your presence to alleviate his stress. Bringing in another horse, even a miniature horse, may give him the herdmate he needs and help him stop pacing.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Another possibility is that his pacing is related to feeding time. You mention that he's fine in the morning until he sees you, and then he starts pacing. if he's only pacing around dinner time or when he sees you come out, then he may be anxious about being fed. Horses who have been on a irregular feeding schedule or were once neglected and horses who are lower in the herd hierarchy (and thus may have to fight for their food) feel stress and may pace to relieve that stress. Keeping him on a regular feeding schedule, making sure he has a safe place to eat where no other horse can get his food, and leaving him alone while he eats may help him overcome his stress and stop pacing.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Pacing can be frustrating, and horses who pace can tear up their stall floor. Try some of the management changes listed above and see if that helps your horse.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><br />
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</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"></span></span><i><b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><br />
</span></span></b></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"></span></span><i><b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><br />
</span></span></b></i></div>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-73215794275335309662010-07-21T09:48:00.000-07:002010-07-21T09:48:18.861-07:00The Question: What do I do with a food aggressive horse?<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">I have a 13 year old gelding that was on the bottom of the pecking order for most of his life. He is docile most of the time, but he exhibits strong food agression even though he is in a private stall and being fed well. </span></i></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">Food aggression can be a difficult thing to deal with in horses. It is often caused by insecurity. We often see it with neglected horses who were not regularly fed: once they start getting grain they don't want to let anyone near their food. We also see it in horses who are group fed and have to fight other horses for their food. Since you say your horse is the bottom of the pecking order, I would say his issues come from insecurity and probably from having to fight to get his food earlier in life.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">I haven't found a 100% successful way to <i>cure </i>food aggression.</span><i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"> </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">For neglected horses, sometimes once they are on a regular feeding program, over time their food aggression with slowly decrease and eventually go away. For horses who are fed in a group situation, separating them from the group to feed them<i> </i>may help lessen their food aggression.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">You don't mention how long your horse has been stalled for feeding. If you've only recently begun that, then I would give it time. Some horses, though, never get over the issues that create food aggression.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">With any food-aggressive horse, you need to give him a safe place to eat: a stall of his own, preferably with no one next to him. Leave him alone to eat - don't clean his stall, groom him, hang out with him, etc. while he's eating. If he has a tendency to bite or kick at you when feeding, set his stall up so you can dump his feed into the bucket without entering the stall.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">Good luck - and I hope some time in a safe environment will help your horse become less food aggressive.</span><br />
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</span></i>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-18885175768216064382010-07-01T11:08:00.000-07:002010-07-01T11:08:05.669-07:00The Question: Why is my horse now scared of the farrier?<b style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></b><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i><b>I have a 15 year old, Thoroughbred gelding, Simon, who up until recently has never shown any behavior issues. I have always worked very hard on making sure his manners on the ground and when riding are impeccable. In August of 2007, I got a new farrier when my previous farrier stopped trimming my horse. The new farrier attempted to hot shoe my horse on the cross ties the first time he shod him. Simon reared and struck at the farrier. I was away at school at the time so I came back for the next shoeing. Simon was scared, but as soon as I was around, he calmed down. After 4 times of working with him, he was back to normal and able to be shod on the cross ties without me. I moved Simon to a new barn in September and my previous farrier is now shoeing him again. The first time he tried to shoe him, he was able to trim him, but as soon as he tried to put the shoes on, Simon reared and struck at him and ran to his pasture. The barn owner took him and lunged him and brought him back. He then reared and stuck his legs through the bars in the stall where they were trying to take out the one nail they got in. I rested him for a week and tried again today. He was horrible for me as well and I ended up having to call the vet to have him sedated. I am truly at a loss. My horse is amazing and has never done anything like this and I am not sure where to even begin to fix this. Any advice that you could offer me would be fabulous. Thank you so much. </b></i></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It is so confusing when a formerly quiet and good horse suddenly has a breakdown like this. I doubt he's "just being bad" or anything. It is likely he's reacting either out of fear or out of pain. Pain is the easier one to eliminate, so I would have your veterinarian examine him. He's going to need to look for subtle signs of discomfort, do flexion tests, and check him out for arthritis or other pain. I would be especially concerned about pain since you said he's fine until the farrier starts to put a nail in.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If he's arthritic or has some other source of pain, your vet can prescribe medication and treatment. However the next few times your farrier shoes your horse, he still may react out of fear he'll feel pain.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If your horse is reacting out of fear, you'll have to work through his issues. If your horse wasn't used to hot-shoeing, he may have been scared the first time the farrier tried to hot-shoe him. If he was used to hot-shoeing, the farrier may have accidentally quicked him or set a nail wrong the first time, causing him pain, and causing him to continue acting out. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">How does he behave in the cross-ties when he's not being shod? If he's nervous about being cross-tied, then you are going to need to work on that first. I would start by cross-tieing him for short periods of grooming or something else he enjoys. You may start with just a few minutes, making sure you can take him out of the cross-ties while he's still relaxed. Over time, you can work your way up to longer periods.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If he's ok with the cross-ties other than when he's being shod, then you are going to need to work with your farrier. You might want to talk to him about paying him to come out a few times just to handle your horse. Pick up his feet, clean his feet out, rub on him, etc. and put him away while he's still relaxed. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">When it is time to shoe him again, you need to talk to your farrier about paying him extra just to have him go extra-slow with your horse. Before the farrier gets there, I would longe him and make sure he's blown off any excess energy. Make sure he's paying attention to you. You might try holding him instead of cross-tieing him, too, as some horses just don't care for the cross-ties. <b>Do not </b>stand in front of him, though, in case he does rear or strike. Keep yourself and your farrier safe. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If his behavior does not improve and he doesn't need shoes, I would try having the farrier pull his shoes and just trim him for a few visits to get him more comfortable with the farrier. Then once he's comfortable again, you might try having shoes put back on him.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I really do suspect pain as a trigger for his behavior, though, and I would recommend getting him checked out by a veterinarian soon. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Good luck to both you and Simon!</div>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-29167074132523597592010-05-13T12:01:00.000-07:002010-05-13T12:01:44.630-07:00The Question: Why are my horses eating the bark off my trees?<i><b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">We have a herd of seven horses of various breeds. We live on approximately one hundred wooded acres. We partially cleared approximately ten acres for horses leaving it heavily wooded. We supplement with year round hay and they receive grain each day that is prepared by a livestock/equine nutrition expert that is a family member. They are in good condition. We use them primarily for trail riding and my daughter gives some riding lessons in the summer. She went to college for equine management and training. None of our contacts have seen this behavior either. These horses have been eating the bark off the trees. They have completely killed an area of three acres. The stripped these trees up to approximately twenty feet. They loosen the bark and peel it up until it breaks. I'm stumped. Any suggestions?</span></b></i><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">It can be very frustrating to deal with behaviors that not only seem to have no cause but also are so damaging to your property! It sounds like your horses are displaying a form of the stereotypy wood-chewing. A stereotypy is a repeatitive behavior with no apparent cause. However</span><i><b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"> </span></b></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">when you start to look at stereotypic behaviors, we see that they often have a cause. In the case of wood-chewing, some behaviorists theorize that the horses are missing nutrients. Other times, the horses are frustrated and that causes stress that comes out in the form of stereotypies. Since your property is heavily wooded, I'm going to guess there's not a lot of available grass. If you are supplementing with square bales instead of round bales or if your round bales are not good quality, your horses may be frustrated because they don't have forage available 24/7. Horses are made to eat throughout the day, and when they can't sometimes they turn to wood-chewing to deal with their frustration.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">I have a wood-chewer, and he does much better when he has constant access to either grass or hay (in the form of a round bale), and when he's in a stall he also does better if he has a mineral block to chew on. You might try those two things and see if they help. Unfortunately, sometimes once horses start chewing wood, they are reluctant to stop - even once you've given them alternatives. At that point, you either have to let them kill off your trees or restrict their access to the trees by wrapping tree trunks in chicken wire or covering the tree trunks in something like "Chew Stop" or a similar product.</span><br />
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</span></b></i>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-71911887742576679372010-05-13T11:45:00.001-07:002010-05-13T11:45:31.603-07:00The Question: How do I help my new horse settle into our home?<i><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">We recently bought a 16 yr old Arab. She has been on the same ranch for 5 years and has never left. We will be bringing her to our home soon. What should I do to make her adjustment to a new home easier? </span></b></i><br />
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<div style="margin: 15px 10px 10px;"> <span style="font-family: Arial;"> Congrats on your new horse! Bringing a new one home is always exciting - and maybe just a little nerve-wracking. You want your horse's first experiences with you to be good ones, and that includes her experience moving into a new home. The good news is that horses are very adaptable! Most move into new homes with little, if any, problems. I've moved horses cross-country with no issues at all. </span></div><div style="margin: 15px 10px 10px;"> <span style="font-family: Arial;">There are a few things you can do to make her transition as smooth as possible. First, find out what her schedule is like in her current home and how she's housed. Try to keep her on a similar schedule and in similar housing at first. For instance, if she's used to being fed grain twice a day and kept in a stall at night, try to do that at home and slowly ease her into a new schedule. </span></div><div style="margin: 15px 10px 10px;"> <span style="font-family: Arial;">Also find out how she is with other horses. If she's very timid, you might want to put her in with a less dominant horse so she won't get picked on. However if she's a very dominant mare, you might not want to pair her up with an equally dominant horse or a battle could ensue. </span></div><div style="margin: 15px 10px 10px;"> <span style="font-family: Arial;">Find out what she's used to eating and how much. If you will be switching to a different feed, ask the sellers if you can buy some of their feed to take home with your mare. Then gradually switch her over to your feed. The first few feedings, feed her normal feed. Then replace a quarter of her normal ration with your food and gradually increase the amount of your feed in her ration until she's eating only your feed. </span></div><div style="margin: 15px 10px 10px;"> <span style="font-family: Arial;">When bringing a new horse home, it is always a good idea to quarantine them from other horses for about two weeks. You can keep her where she can see other horses but cannot touch them. This protects the resident horses from diseases the new horse might bring with her. </span></div><div style="margin: 15px 10px 10px;"> <span style="font-family: Arial;">After quarantine is over, gradually introduce your mare to her new herd. You can start by putting her in a paddock next to the pasture where she can meet the horses over the fence. Then put her in the paddock with one other horse and once the two of them are getting along, you can introduce her to the herd. Do this after everyone has eaten and when there is plenty of daylight available. Keep an eye on her and make sure she does ok with everyone. </span></div><div style="margin: 15px 10px 10px;"> <span style="font-family: Arial;">Good luck with your new horse - I'm sure she'll settle in quickly with just a little help from you! </span></div><span style="font-family: Arial;"> <i>The Equine Behaviorist</i></span>Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1610226130098516456.post-69173767750477794472010-05-13T11:44:00.000-07:002010-05-13T11:44:09.515-07:00Welcome to the Equine Behaviorist Q & A BlogIn the past, I've posted the questions I receive via email and my answers on my webpage. However having to edit the HTML and make all the updates gets time consuming and consequently I don't make as many updates as I should. So I decided to enter the 21st century and start a behavior blog.<br />
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I'll use this blog to post questions I receive and my answers. I get dozens of behavior questions per month, so I cannot answer all of them. I'm going to do my best to try to update the blog once a week, though, so keep an eye. Hopefully we can learn more about horse behavior together!Cowgirljennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12984638991963709614noreply@blogger.com0